Yup, GOODER......and MORE BETTER too!

NOTE:  If you do not see the menu bar to the left, please click HERE.

What's it all going to cost?  That depends greatly on which components you choose, and which build options/services you choose.  Below is the price for the actual work that will take place (not including components).

Note:  All prices are in Canadian funds.  Canadian residents are subject to GST, Saskatchewan residents are subject to PST and GST.  Taxes are NOT included in prices.  If you are outside of Canada, there are NO taxes.

Please understand that there is SOOOO much more to building a good golf club than just "cut and glue".  Special attention must be directed towards the shaft of the golf club in order to make the club perform its best - consistently, swing after swing.  With the use of some specialized high-tech tooling and equipment, these special checks/modifications/enhancements can be made.

Basic Assembly

Shop supplies are charged in addition to prices noted above (for ferrules, grip tape, solvent, acetone, cutting and prepping supplies, tooling and equipment supplies, etc.).

*Re-shafting includes removing old shaft from head, cut new shaft to proper length, spine-align/FLO shaft, frequency analyze & profile shaft, assemble club, and install grip).

There is a modest $25.00 charge to do an in-person custom fitting session - payable before the fitting session begins.  This fee is credited towards your balance if you purchase a set (8 or more clubs, all at the same time).  Please see the "About Custom Fitting" page for more details.

 Optional Add-ons

See below for a detailed explanation of spine-align/FLO, swingweighting, loft & lie, and frequency matching.

Assembly time can be anywhere from 3 or 4 days, up to 3 weeks (depending on availability of components).  I do keep many components on hand, however I cannot keep them ALL.  There are times when I have to bring certain components in, but I always try to piggy-back them with other goods, components, and supplies to keep the costs per component down for you.  Left-handed club heads may not be available in every model at this site, I will note all of the exceptions on the club head pages.

** My Disclaimer: ** My clubs will not be the cheapest available on the market - I'll let you know that right now - custom anything costs money.  If you want the cheapest golf clubs your money can buy, you might want to take a trip to your local Wal-Mart or Canadian Tire store - they carry clubs that are mass produced, use the cheapest $EL-Cheap-O shaft they can find, will NOT be spine aligned, FLO'd, frequency matched, swingweighted, loft??? lie??? etc. (you get the picture), and will be made to a length and flex made to fit somebody else.  If you choose this route, I hope you enjoy your golf game that will never improve.  You see, almost anyone (including my 7-year old) can cut a shaft and glue a golf club together (that's the easy part), it is very doubtful that they will perform well, or consistent from club to club.  On the other hand, true custom club making is an art - to do it right requires pride, great care, attention to detail, quality components, and some very high-tech specialized equipment.  These performance enhancements will be reflected in the performance of the finished product.  Your properly enhanced custom made clubs will perform better, and more consistently than any off-the-shelf units - remember, good golf is consistent golf.  I WILL NOT build cheap trashy clubs or become a trash peddler - as mentioned earlier in this statement, if you want the cheap mass-made trashy stuff, go to one of the establishments listed previously.  I can assure you that the clubs you purchase from Gooder Custom Golf Clubs will be made the best I can possibly make 'em.  Your clubs will be made for you and your swing, they will be custom fitted and assembled one by one with the exact same care, attention, and detail I would put into my own clubs (or my wife's clubs for that matter - I don't care too much for the "wrath of wife", so I make 'em good).  I have a great passion for the game of golf, the art of club making, and take great pride in the work I do - I will build each and every club like I were building it for my own use.  You have my word on that!

Spine Aligning/FLO:

What is "Spine Aligning" you ask?  Almost all golf shafts are made from a flat material (steel, graphite, titanium).  The material is rolled into a round shape to form a tube, the edges are bonded together along its length to create the shaft.  This joined edge is referred to as the "spine".

The spine has variances in bonding material and thickness along its length.  Bending the shaft directly against the spine will produce inconsistencies leading to poor shots that golfers assume are their own fault, or a swing flaw.  The position of the spine in relation to the club face is critical in order to achieve consistent flexing under load (IE the golf swing) - YES, the shaft actually flexes during the swing.  Positioning the club head to the proper spine position during assembly of the club will result in consistent and repeatable flexing of the shaft, and will help you achieve more consistent, and accurate shots.

In plain English - Each and every golf shaft WANTS to bend a certain way - if you install the shaft in a position (in relation to the clubhead) where it is NOT bending the "way it wants" under load, some funky things are going to happen, it will not repeat consistently swing after swing.  If the shaft spine position is way out of whack, it is possible to make a perfect golf swing, and still mis-hit the ball.... yup, it's true!!!!  The spine also has an effect on the frequency (flex stiffness) of the golf shaft - the really bad ones can be out as much as one full flex.... yup, it's true.

I have yet to see a shaft without a spine.  Some shafts have a more pronounced spine than others, but they all have a spine.  According to the shaft manufacturers, it IS possible to produce a "spine-less" shaft, however the price of shafts would skyrocket.  Shaft manufacturers do not mark the spine on their shafts, many of their customers (the big golf companies) do not check the spine of each and every shaft they handle either.  The golf companies paint their graphics on the shaft, and line them up usually with the pretty graphics pointing straight up (for the best cosmetic appearance), or in some cases straight down.  The unfortunate result is a "pretty" looking club that most likely will not perform as well or consistently as it could.

I use high quality spine finding equipment to locate the spine on my customer's shafts, and ALL of the shafts used in my own clubs.  You will notice on the clubs I have assembled for myself that the shaft graphics do not point straight up at address, this is because I would rather swing a club that will perform consistently (IE "Spined"), than a club that looks pretty.

The next phase of the spine-align/FLO process is the FLO-ing.  FLO stands for Flat Line Oscillation.  The procedure involves placing a shaft into a holding device, fixing a laser pointer to the club shaft with a weight attached to the end of the shaft to simulate the weight of a clubhead.  The shaft is then "twanged" - the laser pointer will make a pattern showing the directions that the shaft is oscillating.  Ideally you want the oscillations to repeat and hold true in a flat line.  Many shafts will oscillate inconsistently in all directions (circular and linear), and will be VERY unpredictable/inconsistent when attached to a clubhead.  The FLO position of the shaft is directly related to the spine of the golf shaft.  The spining process gets you into the ballpark, and the FLO-ing process is the fine tuning to help get the shaft into precisely the exact proper position in relation to the clubhead.  See the pictures below of a laser pointer attached to a golf shaft to help you understand what Flat Line Oscillation is.

No FLO (random oscillation)

FLO is achieved (no funky oscillation)

When the spine of the shaft, and the FLO alignment are determined, the shaft is installed precisely in the perfect position in relation to the club face.  Under load the shaft will remain stable, consistent, and repeatable - which will result in more consistent ball contact, fewer off-center hits, and less shot dispersion.  Look at the two pictures above - which one of these two shafts would you want in your club?  A shaft that has not been spined/FLO'd does some pretty funky things on the downswing while the shaft is under load (flexing), and it will NOT flex consistently from swing to swing - just look at the "No FLO" picture above (left).  When the shaft is outta whack, it is possible to make a perfect swing, and still end up with a mis-hit ball.....believe it or not.  The picture of the shaft on the right is the one I want in my club, consistent and repeatable. To sum up,  Spine-aligning / FLO'ing is a very important, critical process to help every shaft perform consistently, and yup I'm going to say it.... MORE BETTER.  Numerous studies have been done whose results can prove the benefits of spining/FLO.  This spine/FLO procedure is so critical to the performance of the golf club, that it is a part of every club I build.

Swing Weighting:

What is swingweight anyway?  Swingweight is essentially how heavy the club "FEELS" as you are swing it.  For example,  you can have two clubs (let's say 5-irons) that both have the exact same static physical weight in grams (as measured on a digital weigh scale), but could have substantially different swingweights.  If one of the two clubs has more of the weight distributed towards the clubhead, it will have a higher swingweight and will "FEEL" heavier when you are swinging it.  The opposite holds true for the other club that has more of the weight distributed towards the grip end of the club, it will "FEEL" lighter as you are swinging it, and thus will have a lower swingweight value.  Swingweight is expressed in a two-digit alphanumeric value (A0-A9, B0-B9, C0-C9, D0-D9, etc.), the higher the letter and number, the heavier the swingweight will be.  The swingweight identification scale reads from the ultra-light "A" (the lightest swingweight) clubs [example A-4] , all the way up to "G" (the heaviest swingweight) clubs [example G-7].  Most ladies' clubs usually fall somewhere into the "C" category for swingweight, and most men's clubs usually fall somewhere into the "D" category for swingweight.   A club with a D-4 swingweight will "FEEL" heavier than a C-7 swingweight - even if they have the same physical weight while sitting there quietly alone on a digital scale.  I hope my description of swingweight makes sense to you.

To give you an idea of how fine the swingweight measurement is - If we were to take an assembled club whose swingweight measures at "C-7" and fix (attach) a dime to the clubhead, the swingweight would now change to a value of C-8 (one swingweight point).  The weight of a teeny little dime will alter the swingweight by about one point.  Most players will not be able to feel one or two swingweight points, however many better players can feel a difference of two or three swingweight points.

Do you need to have your clubs swingweighted?  That's entirely up to you.

My own humble opinion on swingweighting is if you;

•  Are new to golf (this is your first set of clubs)
•  Just started playing the game, or play less than 5 times a year
•  Are a very high handicap player

You may want to wait until you gain some consistency, experience, and get better before having your clubs swingweighted - maybe consider it on your next set of clubs after you have built somewhat of a consistent, repeatable, and reliable swing.  At the beginner or high handicap level, you should be concentrating on the fundamentals and basics (maybe a lesson or two from a certified instructor) - concentrate on building a sound and consistent swing before worrying about the club fine-tuning tools like swingweighting (and don't forget to practice your short game!!!).

Swingweighting is more of a fine-tuning process/instrument for the lower handicap player, or perhaps the higher handicap player who is well on his/her way to consistent improvement - then it should be considered.  Keep in mind that good golf is consistent golf, this is another area where we can help to maximize the consistency between every club in your bag.  You will have more confidence swinging every club in your bag when every club "FEELS" the same when swinging.  If your clubs are consistent, that will help YOU and your swing be more consistent.

Loft & Lie:

The LOFT of a golf club has much to do with how high and how far the ball travels.  The more loft you have, the ball will go higher and not as far.  The less loft you have, the ball will go lower and farther (when struck properly).  A 5-iron travels lower and farther than a pitching wedge.  Ideally, in a set of golf clubs, you want enough difference in the loft (and proper length) of each golf club to produce a 10-15 yard differential in how far each club hits the ball with a good swing.  See the pics below to see what loft is.

An example of a high-lofted club (PW), the ball will go high and not very far.

An example of a lower-lofted club (5-iron), the ball will go lower than a wedge, and farther.

Lofts can change over time from repeated impacts with the turf.  Occasionally, even when clubheads are new, they can be off by a degree or two.

The LIE of a golf club is very important to how the club will perform - and that ain't no lie - yup, it's true (pardon the pun).  The proper lie angle for each golfer is NOT the same (the lie angle does change from club to club).  Proper lie angle depends on many factors - your height, your stature, how upright you stand when you're addressing the ball, how close your arms are to your body during your swing, or how flat or upright your swing plane is.  If the lie angle of a golf club is too upright for you and your swing - the ball will have a tendency to either pull or pull/hook.  If the lie angle of a golf club is too flat for you and your swing - the ball will tend to push or push/slice.  If the lie angle is correct, assuming you made a good swing, the ball should go straight.  With incorrect golf club lie, it is possible to make a perfect swing and have the ball wander from your target line.  See pic below to better understand lie angle.

You can see what the ball wants to do with each lie angle in the picture.

Having your loft & lies checked/adjusted is another piece to the puzzle when it comes to making a good set of golf clubs.  It is just another method of "fine tuning" we can do with our golf clubs to ensure they are made to fit YOU and YOUR particular swing.  Most club heads are made to a "standard" lie.  If someone can define what or who a "standard" golfer is, please let me know and we can get rich together.  The better we can make the clubs to fit YOU, the better and more consistent you will play.  Even on your existing clubs, it's a good idea to get loft and lie checked every season to make sure they are correct - YES, they can change after repeated hits on the ground.

NOTE REGARDING LOFT/LIE ADJUSTMENTS - In order to adjust the loft or lie of a golf club, the club is placed into a special machine and the hosel is actually BENT to make the adjustment.  I WILL NOT adjust loft/lie of a golf club by more than 2 degrees (if you bend them too far, they can actually break, although 1-2° is safe).  Another point to consider with loft/lie adjustments - it is possible when either loft or lie is adjusted that the sole and hosel of the club can get slightly "marked" from the holding/bending equipment - if it does get marked, it will NOT hurt performance in any way, the blemish is strictly cosmetic only.  Just checking loft/lie will not blemish the clubheads, it is during the adjustment procedure that the blemish can happen.  I CAN NOT guarantee that during a loft/lie adjustment, your clubhead sole or hosel won't get a blemish on it.  I try to be as careful as I can, but a blemish can happen - please be aware of that.  If you want me to adjust the loft & lie of your existing clubs for you, keep in mind that some materials cannot be adjusted - Zinc heads (Irons identified as metallic colored and non- magnetic), Graphite or graphite crown heads (Visually identifiable), Most Titanium heads, Aluminum Hybrid heads.

Frequency Matching:

Frequency matching (in plain English) is the precise and accurate method to measure golf shaft flex (stiffness).  Unfortunately in the golf world, there currently is NO SET STANDARD for stiffness in golf shafts - one brand's "Regular" flex may be the same as another brand's "Stiff" flex, or another brand's "Ladies" flex.  Without a measuring standard, it is VERY easy to end up with the wrong shaft for your tempo and swing speed because you really can't trust the flex letter that is stamped onto the shaft.  We have also seen some off-the-shelf sets, all with their "Regular" flex shafts installed - where the actual shaft flex (as measured by the frequency analyzer) can be two full flexes different than what they are supposed to be.  You could end up with a set of clubs that have some senior, lady, regular, stiff, and extra stiff shafts in them - all in the same set, all labeled as "Regular" flex - kinda like a fruit salad of flex.  I don't imagine these would perform very consistently in anyone's hands.

Frequency matching measures the TRUE flex of any given shaft, measured in cycles per minute (CPM).  A given freqency (CPM) will mean a specific stiffness, at a specific shaft length, with the weight of a certain club head on the shaft (all clubheads do not weigh the same - final frequency is measured with the proper clubhead on its respective shaft) - precise and accurate, no guesswork.  Through frequency matching, it is possible to have a set of clubs that ALL have the exact desired stiffness curve for you and your swing.  What would you rather trust......someone's "A", "L", "R", "S", "X" (denoting shaft flex) stamped on a shaft, or an actual accurately measured CPM value telling you exactly what flex you have in your golf shafts?

Frequency analyzing does not end with taking just one frequency measurement of each shaft.  We take things a step further and do what is called frequency profiling of every shaft.  A frequency reading at 3 pre-determined length increments (for irons), and 5 pre-determined lengths (for woods) is taken along each shaft, and the results are plotted onto a spreadsheet.  Frequency is measured from the butt of the shaft, the middle of the shaft, and the tip of the shaft.  This will help us get the absolute best match of shaft to a given club head for a given swing - we look for certain shaft characteristics for the longer clubs, and different characteristics for the shorter clubs and wedges.  By profiling each shaft, there is NO GUESSWORK as to which shaft should go into which club head.  If you want the best possible golf clubs you can get, this must be done.

No two shafts are identical - we have seen two shafts, one labeled "R" and one labeled "S" - on the frequency analyzer they only had ONE CPM difference (when a full flex is about 10 CPM) - so you can't always trust what the shaft label says.  When it comes to shaft flex, you can't always believe what you see - the "R" or "S" could mean something VERY different than you think it might.  Swing speed, swing tempo, and your "release point" in the swing are the main factors to consider in order to determine what shaft is correct for you and your swing.

Every given swing speed and tempo has a desired shaft flex (stiffness).  The CPM values will not be identical for all clubs in the set that are custom made for you.  The "desired" CPM should change as you go from the longer clubs to the shorter clubs.  There is a desired CPM increment that we want to see from club to club for YOUR swing characteristics.  When you get your clubs frequency matched, each and every club will have the exact proper frequency (flex) for the given length of club for YOUR SWING.  Remember, good golf is consistent golf - this is just another fine-tuning tool we can use to help make your clubs as consistent as they can be, which will lead to more consistent golf (and better golf) for you.  This process is so critical to the performance of golf club, that it is part of every club I build.