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This is the "Bert's Babblin' on Stuff" page (otherwise known as the good ol' Gooder FLOG) - like it or not, it's just my babbln' on the way I see things related to golf clubs, social networking, advertising, and whatever else might come to mind over time.  Keep checking back, 'cuz this page will get updated every time I feel like FLOGGIN' on a topic of interest.

So ya wanna play better golf eh?  You still searching for that elusive secret to better golf?  Psssssssssssssst ...... I'll let you in on a li'l  secret - THERE IS NO SECRET.  If you're truly serious about improving your game of golf you must consider two main elements;

    (1) The tools you use [your golf clubs] MUST be fit (by a competent and QUALIFIED club fitter) to you and all elements of your golf swing - this is where I can help.  Keep in mind that there is SOOOO much more to it than just "cut and glue".

    (2) Your golf swing - you need to build a solid, reliable, consistent, and repeatable golf swing.  This can mean something as simple as a bit of fine tuning, or could also mean a complete teardown and rebuild of your golf swing.  This step can be addressed either through lessons from the right qualified teaching professional, or if you're very good at figuring things out yourself - through regular purposeful practice.  As Ben Hogan said "The answer is in the dirt".  The use of full length mirrors (if you have access to one or more), and a video camera (to record your swings for playback/analyzing) can also help a great deal.  One thing I'll mention with regards to video analysis - what you "think" your body is doing during the swing, and what you're actually doing are VERY different - I learned that first hand.  Lastly - DO NOT forget about your short game - your scoring potential/ability is directly related to the state of your short game.

Another quick point to keep in mind.  I do not sell miracle clubs - you will not be able to purchase a custom made set of clubs from me and overnight go from shooting 120's to 70's - stuff like that just doesn't happen.  Don't forget, your swing has a lot to do with how and why the ball goes where it does.  Yes, I can build clubs that will be easier to hit, more consistent, and more forgiving on mis-hits, however don't forget to pay attention to your swing.  Get plenty of purposeful practice in, and if your swing is really ailing - take some lessons from a certified instructor.  The legendary Ben Hogan once said "Every day you miss practice, means one more day it will take until you become good".

Practice with purpose, learn from your sessions at the driving range, and don't be afraid to take a lesson or two.  The last thing I am going to say on this topic is when you practice, make sure you spend 60-70% of your practice time working on your short (100 yards and closer) game - because 60-70% of your shots in a round of golf will happen from 100 yards or closer - and nearly half of those shots will occur with a putter in your hand (how often do you practice putting???).  Hmmmm 60-70% of your shots in a round should deserve 60-70% of your practice time - don't ya think???  Next time you're at the range, take a couple of minutes to study how others practice - 80% of them will hit 4 or 5 wedge shots, a couple of iron shots, followed by 2 buckets with the driver.  Are they really improving, or just practicing their mistakes?  What did they learn?????  Prolly nothin'.  'Nuff said.  By the way........ some food for thought - how many wedges do you carry in your bag?  How many wedges should you carry in your golf bag?  Believe it or not, there is a correct answer for this question - a number that can be proven scientifically too!


So ya wanna play better golf (don't we all)?  Not only can I relate to you, but I respect and admire the fact that if you've gotten this far you are at least reading up a bit on how to improve (ya gotta start somewhere).  If you are serious about playing better and having the right equipment - YAY to you!!!  Here's the kicker....... I don't care about your money, or even if you purchase your clubs from me.  Here's the best advice I can give you with regards to getting the right equipment in your golf bag - GET YOURSELF FITTED BY A CERTIFIED AND QUALIFIED CLUBFITTER!  It doesn't have to be me, just be certain that your clubfitter has the necessary education, tooling, and experience to get it right!  Make sure they have all the necessary gear to measure and fit you properly, make sure they really want to fit/build the best possible equipment for you - hopefully they can prove it too, and that it's just not about the money.  There is A LOT more to this fitting stuff than most people think there is.  Also keep in mind that a real fitting is gonna take more than 20 minutes - my typical iron fitting is between 2.5 - 4 hours long.  Don't tell me that you spent 15 minutes with some salesman in the retail sporting goods store and were "fit"...... that's not clubfitting, you didn't even scratch the surface.  Be smart, educate yourself, and don't believe the guy who tells you what you wanna hear just to make the sale.  If you're going to be spending your hard-earned money on a really good set of clubs, just make sure you spend it wisely and properly - make sure you are buying the right stuff, and make sure you get your money's worth!  The newest "bling-bling" golf club technology advertised on TV doesn't necessarily mean that it's (1) good, (2) good for YOU, or (3) will help YOUR game.  Hopefully you can tell the difference between someone who is just trying to sell something to you, and someone who is really concerned about getting the right golf gear into your hands.


Some common sense video information about custom clubs.

I strongly urge you to take a few minutes of your time to click on the video links below - each video will open in a new window.  Tom Wishon (one of the world's most gifted minds in custom clubmaking and club design) shares some common sense insight on golf clubs, and why it is so important to get fitted for your clubs.  Each video is approximately 4-5 minutes long, and I'm sure you'll find each one VERY informative - well worth the price of admission (it's FREE) - all you have to invest is a few minutes of your time to hear some good ol' fashioned common sense talk about golf clubs.

“Custom Fit vs. Standard”
Click here to watch this video - will open in a new window.

“What does Custom Fitting do for Golfers?”
Click here to watch this video - it will open in a new window.

“The Facts of Life about the Golf Equipment Industry”
Click here to watch this video - it will open in a new window.

“The Basic Elements of Professional Shaft Fitting”
Click here to watch this video - it will open in a new window.

 

These short videos are brilliant (my humble opinion of course - hey, I'm a clubfitter, call me biased).  Mr. Wishon presents some common sense facts about the way it is with golf clubs.  Are custom fitted clubs really necessary?  Kinda gets ya thinkin' don't it????


What's in my bag???

I get numerous emails here in Gooder-Ville.  Besides the many questions I receive about customer's clubs and what might be correct for them, one of the most often asked questions I receive are "How's your game?", and "What's in your bag"?  For "how's my game", my handicap floats around 8-10 (career low round is 74).  In my bag(s) I have four playing sets of irons/wedges, numerous drivers (last count was 8), numerous fairway woods (a couple sets 3 & 5, and a few sets of 3, 5 & 7) , numerous hybrids, and currently about 7 or 8 putters.  Pretty much all of these clubs get played throughout the year.  And yes, I golf left-handed.  My low round to date has been a 74 (yes, that was for 18 holes, and not 9.... hahaha), and I've been able to shoot in the 70's with all of these sets.

Iron Set #1:

  • Swing Science S-800 irons (cast) 4-PW bent to achieve 4° split between each club, lie angles bent flat to my specs
  • Swing Science "T" wedges (52°, 56°, 60°)
  • Swing Science 200-Series 24° hybrid club
  • The above irons and hybrid are shafted with KBS Tour shafts "X" flex, tipped to attain a 6.5 PCS frequency flex
  • The three wedges above are shafted with FST stepless steel rifle shafts
  • My clubs are longer than standard length (my specs about + 3/4")
  • This set is MOI matched to my "magic number"

Iron Set #2:

  • Wishon 770CFE 4-PW irons, bent to achieve 4° split between each club, lie angles bent flat to my specs
  • PPS CNC Milled wedges (52°, 56°, 60°)
  • SLR 24° hybrid club
  • All clubs in the above set shafted with FST stepless steel rifle shafts
  • Same length as the above set
  • This set is MOI matched to my "magic number"

Iron Set #3:

  • Miura LH Cavity (4-PW), bent to achieve 4° loft differential between each club, bent flat to my specs
  • Miura 52°, 56°, and 60° wedges
  • All clubs shafted with KBS Tour shafts tipped to attain MY flex requirement
  • Built to MY length (+ 3/4")
  • This set is MOI matched to my "magic number"

Iron Set #4:

  • Alpha RX-1 (4-PW), bent to achieve 4° loft differential between each club, lie angles bent flat to my specs
  • Alpha PF-2C wedges (52°, 56°, 60°)
  • All clubs in this set shafted with FST 115 steel shafts, frequency matched to my specs
  • + 1" longer
  • This set is MOI matched to my "magic number"

Drivers:

  • Wishon 919THI 11° driver, 44.25" long, Wishon InterFlexx "X" 77g shaft (slightly modified to attain 7.2 PCS flex)
    •  This has been my primary driver for 4 (count 'em four) whole seasons now - if you knew me a few years ago, I was a "club 'ho" to say the least, now for me to stick with a driver for that long, you know there's gotta be a reason for it
  • Swing Science S-200 10.5° driver, 44.5" long, Swing Science HEX360-75g shaft (modified to attain 7.3 PCS flex)
  • Block Head square driver 10.5°, 44.5" long, shafted with UST "Launch" 80g shaft (modified to attain 7.1 PCS flex)
  • Alpha C830.4LX 10.5° (hand picked to 11°), 44.25" long, shafted with Swing Science HEX360-75g shaft to my required flex
  • Alpha C830.2 10.5° (hand picked to 11°), 44.25" long, shafted with Accra 75g M5 shaft
  • SLR cup-face 460 driver 12.0°, 44.5" long, shafted with Aldila NVS-X 75g shaft (modified to attain 7.2 PCS flex)
  • and (ahem) a few more...... 'nuff said 
  • Soon to add ??????????????   (Pssssssssst, don't tell my wife OK)

FW Woods:

  • Wishon 515 15° and 18.5°, shafted with UST "Launch" shafts
  • Alpha C830.2 Plasma 15° and 19°, shafted with Swing Science HEX360-FW shafts
  • SLR 15°, 18°, 21°, shafted with FST Steel stepless shafts
  • Inspire 15°, 19°, 23°, shafted with UST "Launch" shafts
  • Prodigy 15°, 18°, 21°, shafted with UST "Launch" shafts
  • A couple more sets of 15°, 18°, 21° FW woods
  • As a side-note of interest.... I carry a 7-wood for EVERY round of golf I play

Putters:

  • I have numerous putters, but play most of my rounds with either my Wishon S2R-1 (blade), Alpha Zeta (blade), or my YETI (mallet).

Grips:

  • All of my personal clubs are gripped with either Star grips or Pure Grips

Golf Ball:

Nearly all of my rounds are played with either;

  • Hogan "Tour Deep" (my all time favorite, but very hard to find now)
  • Titleist Pro V1 (not the "X", just the regular Pro V1)

There ya have it, that's what the "Gooder Golf" guy carries in his golf bag(s).


Some Straight talk about bendin' sticks:

Soooooooooo, you think that understanding how a golf shaft bends (shaft stiffness and bend profile) during a swing doesn't matter???  Using the wrong shaft for your swing doesn't matter either?????  Have a peek at the picture below of Jamie Sadlowski (2008 RE/MAX World Long Drive Champion).  The shaft does a teeny bit more than you think it does during the swing.  How important do you think it is to have the right shaft for your swing?  Ask Jamie, I'm sure he will give you 400++ (yards) reasons why.


(Picture from the January 2009 edition of Golf Digest - www.golfdigest.com)

While we're on the subject of Jamie Sadlowski - If you've got it stuck in your head that the clublength of your driver absolutely NEEDS to to be excessively long - just listen to Jamie's comments in the video while he is warming up that the shorter driver is the straighter one.  Heck, just for giggles in this video, he even hits a 29" long driver 405 yards!!!!!  Have a peek at;

.........while you're at it, have a think about the length of your driver.  Would you like to hit more fairways?


Online Social Networking Babble (or lack of)

I was recently asked about my pages on Facebook and Twitter and the like - a friend said he looked for a while and couldn't find me.  I told him to stop looking, 'cuz he won't find me.  Well, for a very very brief moment in time I actually considered joining up with Facebook..... BUT, while researching to learn more about it I found some rather disturbing quotes from the Facebook CEO Mark Zuckerberg about privacy and such.  While referring to privacy and people who are part of his online community, Zuckerberg's comment was something like "They trust me — dumb fu*ks"!!!  That did it for me, my research on social networking came to a screeching halt..... along with any consideration I may have had for joining up on any social networking sites.  I will not "Like" or "Dislike" anything related to Facebook, nor will I "Tweet", and I don't really care to be notified that one of my "friends" bought a new bike for his/her daughter.  I will however keep babblin' here on my FLOG, and plan to be fitting and building some real kick-ass golf clubs for many years to come.   You'll find me here online in the Gooder-Ville FLOG.  That's all I have to say about that.


Obsession With Distance...Grrrrrr:

Nearly every golfer I know wants to get more distance out of each club in their bag (with the exception of the putter).  This obsession seems to be most prevalent with the driver.  I think one of the contributing factors of this obsession can be attributed to the effective marketing of the big OEM golf companies.  Another factor could be the "ribbing" you take from your buddies when they out-drive you.  In many of the golf commercials I've seen, they project the image that you're a sissy unless you can smash a 300 yard drive on every hole.  If you buy "this" driver or "that" ball, the ground will shake when you hit the ball, car alarms will be going off miles away, the ball will never land, and every drive will go more than 300 yards..... c'mon, give us a break.  Don't get caught up in all the snake-oil marketing hype.  Only 1% (yes, count 'em one single percent, that's ONE, un, uno, eins, ) of all golfers will ever hit a drive that goes 300 or more yards.

Instead of getting caught up in the hype, why don't you try to get fit for a driver (the one fit and built to match you and your swing) that will allow you to hit the ball straighter, on-center, and on the fairway a higher percentage of the time - one that will make the ball travel the maximum potential distance for YOUR swing speed.  Face the facts, if your swing speed is 85 MPH with the driver, the likelihood of you hitting a 300 yard drive with no external factors affecting the ball flight (elevated tee box, tail wind, etc.) are pretty much none.  An 85 MPH driver swing speed has the potential to carry the ball approximately 212.5 yards - depending on the loft of the driver, angle of attack, launch angle, and a few other factors, you might get another 21 or so yards roll = total drive length of 233.5 yards (give or take a few of yards)........ that's it!  Don't get sucked into the hype that everyone and his dog can hit a 300 yard drive with a new swanky "brand-X" driver.  So why not get a driver fit and built to your swing specifications that will enable you to hit your drives 233-ish yards a higher percentage of the time?  Face the facts, if your swing speed is maxed out at 85 MPH, it is what it is - accept it and try to hit every one of your 235 yard drives on the fairway and quit worrying about nailing it farther than your physical limitations will allow.  If you can hit the ball on the fairway your potential distance a high percentage of the time, you're miles ahead of the guy that can poke the odd one 300+ yards with no control ('cuz more than half of the time his second shot will be a drop from an O.B. ball that went into the forest.  The game of golf is about SCORING as low as you can.  Do you remember who hit the longest drive at the 2003 Masters tournament?  Me neither.  However, if you follow the sport of golf there's a good chance you know who is wearing the green jacket from that tournament.  The game of golf is not a game of who can hit the ball the farthest, it's a game of who can score the lowest.

Just for the record - if you want to know what goes into an actual 300 yard drive (carry and roll).... you will require a driver swing speed of 109-110 MPH (minimum - a little more if a club parameter or two isn't right for your swing), you will need the right clubhead loft for your angle of attack and hand position at impact, the right shaft weight, the right shaft flex, the right length, you will need to catch the ball on-center, plus a few other factors - this should produce an approximate 273 yard carry and should roll out to about 300 yards (give or take a few).  If you want to carry the ball 300 yards, it will require an approximate 122+ MPH driver swing speed, perfect conditions previously mentioned, and perfect ball contact.  Of all the golfers I've worked with, there have only been two (count 'em two) whose driver swing speed surpassed 120 MPH.

Approximately 90% of golfers are using a driver that; (1) clublength is too long, (2) not enough loft, (3) shaft is too stiff.

The same swing speed to distance ratio applies to the irons as well.  The OEM's and their "vanishing loft disease" (see my babble in the next topic below for this) have people believing that this clubhead made with their new "Mega-Glitzer-Bling-Flingy" technology,  out of this special material bla bla bla makes you hit the ball farther.  That is a load of hooey!  Distance with a given iron, or rather I should say a given LOFT can be calculated - it is a factor of mainly swing speed, mass, and loft.  For a given swing speed and a given loft (at a certain mass), you have a maximum potential carry distance the ball will fly.  An example of this is a 6-iron with 32° of loft, swinging at 80 MPH - the maximum potential carry distance for this combination is approximately 164 yards.  If you're only hitting your 32° 6-iron 148 yards on the fly with an 80 MPH swing, we have some work to do - perhaps you are using a clubhead design that is not suited to your style of swing, perhaps the shaft is too stiff for your swing (very very common these days), perhaps the shaft is too soft for your swing, swingweight or MOI is incorrect... etc etc etc.  We can help you get the correct clubhead design into your hands, with the correct shaft, swingweight/MOI, etc. to help you reach your maximum potential carry distance with a given club in your hands.

Now, if you only pay attention to the number stamped on the bottom of the club (like 5, 6, or 7) instead of the loft of the iron, you'll never know how far you should be hitting the club.  If you have a brand-new latest model OEM set of irons (that have been victims of vanishing loft), your 6-iron is only going to have about 26° of loft.  Of course you'll hit it farther than your old 6-iron - because your old 6-iron has 32° of loft.  That doesn't make the new 6-iron better or farther really - 'cuz you're actually hitting your old 4 or 5 iron - look at the lofts.  The new OEM 6-irons are a whopping club and a half stronger than the 6-irons of only a few years ago..... although their aggressive marketing may try to convince you that it's because of their "technological" break-through (Mega-Glitzer-Bling-Flingy...... AKA HOOEY).  And that's all I have to say about that!


Vanishing Loft Disease:

"These newer clubs MUST be better, I hit the new 5-iron as far as I used to hit my old 4-iron - isn't this new technology great!!!".  The main reason you hit the new 5-iron as far as your old 4-iron is because in reality you ARE hitting your old 4-iron.  Have a peek at the two charts below - the first one is the posted lofts of two major (and heavily marketed) golf companies.  The second is the lofts of the set I currently have in my golf bag (my clubs are only two years old).

Lofts of the "New and longer" irons

Lofts on my current set of clubs

 

This heavy marketing ploy by the major golf companies could really be ruining your golf game.  Yes, (in a way) their new clubs are longer than your old clubs, they're not lying (because you will be able to hit their new 5-iron longer than your old one).  What they 're not telling you is that it isn't because of technology (that's the snake oil part).  Compare the two charts above, you'll notice that the 6i, 7i, 8i, and 9i will all play a club and a half longer than my own clubs.  The Gap Wedge (or GW) was invented because of vanishing loft - in the good ole days the PW used to be 52° (the common loft of a GW these days).  If they keep this up, they're going to have to invent a Gap Gap wedge (or GGW) to make up the difference once again created by vanishing loft.  I'll bet a dollar that the 3-irons, 4-irons, a good chance the 5-irons, and perhaps even some 6-irons of these "new" "improved" "longer" clubs will remain VERY shiny ('cuz they will not see much use).  If you own one of these new sets, you had better get yourself some hybrids, and soon!  Hybrids were (and still are) an alternative to those hard to hit 2-irons, 3-irons, and 4-irons.  Today's 4, 5, and 6-iron is like the 2, 3, and 4-iron of yester-year.  The hybrid of tomorrow will be an alternative to those hard to hit 3-7 irons.  You NEED a 3-4° loft difference between clubs in order to attain the 10-15 yard difference in distance from club to club.  How do they expect to accomplish this using 2° loft differences in the long irons?  Something else they are completely neglecting is the short game (where the majority of your shots occur).  They essentially turned their new PW into a 9-iron and widened the gaps between the wedges.  This is going to make distance control harder with a wedge in your hands...... your scoring clubs.  Greedy OEM's..... Shame on them!!!


New OEM "Adjustable" Drivers Babble

You may have seen these snazzy new "adjustable" drivers offered by the OEM's - they have an adjustable hosel, you can remove the shaft to make minor adjustments to a couple of parameters.  The OEM's adjustable drivers only represent a program to try to "fit" only ONE club of 14 in the bag, and what they offer in the adjustable drivers is a very limited option within only TWO of the TEN or so basic and important fitting parameters of the driver - all of which can make a performance difference.  Unfortunately, they call this "custom fitting" a driver.  You are still stuck with the same OEM shaft - which may or may not be the proper weight for your swing, flex profile remains the same (more than likely wrong for your swing), club length is still way too long (somewhere between 45-46 inches long), swingweight/MOI may not be the correct match for you, etc.  Their version of "custom fitting" does not complete the driver fitting puzzle.  If you get properly fit for a driver, you will end up with a driver that is perfectly matched to you and your swing - consistent and repeatable - no need for any adjustment.  Don't get "WOWED" by the flashy bells, whistles, and bling - consider the ENTIRE big picture.  It's pretty hard to assemble a puzzle if you only have two of the ten pieces required.  Does a tailor only measure your height and waist when he is making you a suit?????  I don't think so, 'cuz there's soooo much more to it...... and that's all I have to say about that.

.....Even more "Adjustable" drivers babble

HOLY COW!!!!!!!  Some of the new 2012 driver models are out.  Of course, new and improved with EVEN MORE adjustability and bling bling terms built into them than ever before.  I can just see a bunch of fellas throwing out a bunch of their hard-earned cash to buy one of these, have a bad day with the driver, then take it home and adjust the heck out of it....... play the next time, drive poorly, then take it apart and nut with it again.  I'll bet a bunch of those fellas won't play two rounds back to back with the driver set to the same settings.  On the other hand, those who got properly fit don't have to worry about adjusting their drivers, 'cuz they were built right for them in the first place....... longer, straighter, more fairways, and no need for adjustments.

More OEM Drivers Babble (things that make ya go hmmmmmmmm)

Pay attention the next time you're watching golf on television, or see still pictures of the Pros' equipment.  If you ever see a close-up view of a Pro golfer's driver take note of what shaft they have installed in their driver.  You might be surprised - the majority of tour players are NOT using the shafts (or even brand of shaft) that particular model of driver comes with in the stores.  Why do you think that is?????  Kinda strange, 'cuz you have seen that particular brand "SUPER BLING" (the #1 driver on Tour by the way) driver is available from the store with their own brand "SUPER BLING" shaft marked "L", "A", "R", "S", or "X" flex in the store.  Why aren't the majority of Pros using the OEM driver shafts?  Do you think there is a reason for that?  The drivers you buy in the stores are all 46.0" - 46.5" long, but the average driver length for PGA Tour golfers is 44.25" - 44.5" long ........... I wonder why?????


Golf Advertising Babble (the annoying #1 and more)

Something else that really gets my goat with golf advertising - EVERYONE has the #1 "something" in golf or on tour, and I find that annoying as hell.  I have seen (TV or magazine ads) at least three different brands all claiming to be the #1 driver on tour.  I've also seen 3 or 4 brands claim to be the #1 shaft on tour, 3 or 4 brands claim to be the #1 hybrid on tour, 4 or 5 iron brands claim to be the #1 irons on tour, 3 or 4 brands claim to have the #1 wedge on tour, and 3 or 4 brands claim to have the #1 putter on tour.  We even have 4 or 5 brands all claiming to be the #1 golf ball on tour, three or 4 brands offer the #1 shoe in golf, the #1 shirt, the #1 sunglasses.  HOLY SH!T BATMAN, that's an awful lot of #1 stuff in golf.  The #1 shelf can't hold all of the utensils that claim to hold a spot there, there ain't room for 47 #1's in golf in just a handful of golf equipment categories.  I find it strange that we haven't encountered (or maybe we have and I just never got the memo) the #1 umbrella in golf yet, the #1 hat, the #1 visor, the #1 score card mini-pencil, the #1 shoe lace (which can add 17.3 yards to your drives by the way)......... but I hear they will be coming soon.  I wish they would come up with a better advertising strategy/slogan - they are all using the same one right now and it's kinda lame if you ask me - they kinda beat this "#1 in golf" thing into a pulp already...... ENOUGH ALREADY - PLEASE!  Why don't they just come out and tell you the truth - the "what's what", the "this is how it really is" stuff....... I know why, it's 'cuz they won't sell as much stuff.

While I'm on the subject of golf advertising, one thing I really enjoy seeing is the Tour players using a product in which they DO NOT get paid to use.  There are a few "rebels" on tour who actually use product that they want to just 'cuz it's good for them or their game - and they don't get paid to use it.  Now that's the way it should be!  Just ask K.J. what was in his bag at Sawgrass in 2011 (in case you don't know, it was Miura CB-501's shafted with KBS Tour parallel shafts, 'cuz he believed that particular combination was the best for him at that tournament on that particular course) - it worked out pretty darn swell for K.J., he ended up winning the "5th major" at Sawgrass.  The same holds true for brands like Accra, KBS Tour, Aerotech, and others - exceptional quality product being utilized by Tour players 'cuz it's good and they wanna use it....... not 'cuz they're getting paid to wear the hat, smile pretty for the picture, and say "I like this Sh!t".  I truly admire and respect the golfers out there who use the right stuff, for the right reasons.  While we're still on advertising, my absolute favorite set of commercials is the old doll talking about Frank's Red-Hot Sauce........ "I put that sh!t on everything"..... now that makes me laugh!!!!!

There is a somewhat sad story that was shared by one of my AGCP brothers who did some work with an "up-and-comer" who was playing (and excelling) on various mini-tours.  This kid was so good with his properly fit equipment that he could shoot low-mid 60's on a regular basis, he could make the "cut" at these tournaments pretty much at will, and win on a fairly regular basis.  This kid had a VERY bright future in the game of golf.  He played so well that he captured the attention of a few major OEM golf equipment companies.  One of the companies sucked the kid into an equipment contract - he got two free sets of the OEM's clubs every year, he had to play these "free" clubs, and he had to wear the OEM's hat and shirts at all golf events.  Now here's the sad part - when he switched from his properly fit clubs to his contract "ill-fit" OEM equipment, the kid went from average mid-60's per round, to low 70's per round.  He starting missing several cuts and gave up his dream of playing professional golf - the professional game has not heard this kid's name ever since.  With that statement I'm not saying everyone who gets properly fit is going to be tour caliber - BUT it just goes to show you how properly fit equipment can help you play to YOUR potential.  I am not tour caliber (and never will be), but I sure play a hell of a lot better with my properly fit stuff than I ever did with off-the-rack stuff - my properly fit equipment enables me to play to MY potential.  Properly fit golf gear can help YOU play to YOUR potential also.  Now.... sniff.... sniff.... That's all I'm gonna say about that.


All "R" flex shafts are the same.... right?

No two shafts are identical - we have seen two shafts, one labeled "R" (for regular flex..... what is that anyway?) and one labeled "S" (for stiff flex) - on the frequency analyzer they only had ONE CPM difference (when a full flex in the custom club world is about 10 CPM) - so you can't always trust what the shaft label says.  When it comes to shaft flex, you can't always believe what you see - the "R" or "S" could mean something VERY different than you think it might.  Swing speed, swing tempo, and your "release point" in the swing are the main factors to consider in order to determine what shaft is correct for you and your swing.

Here's a neat little shaft frequency study that was done on five different branded shafts - all shafts were factory marked as "R" (for regular) flex.  If they all say "R" on them, they should all be the same..... right?????  Have a peek:

Shaft #1 - 318 cycles per minute (CPM)
Shaft #2 - 313 CPM
Shaft #3 - 318 CPM
Shaft #4 - 306 CPM
Shaft #5 - 295 CPM

NOTE:  All of the above "R" shafts were tested at the same beam length, with the same tip weight installed - conditions were equal for each test.

Now, in the above iron shafts (that are supposed to be the "same") we see a difference of 23 CPM from the lowest to the highest value (that's HUGE by the way).  In the retail store (off-the-rack sellers), all of these "R" shafts would be candidates for the same golfer because Mr. Golfer's swing requires a "Regular Flex" shaft, 'cuz he doesn't swing fast enough to handle a "Stiff" flex shaft.  In the eyes of a good clubfitter, these shafts are completely different from each other - there would be more than a 20+ MPH difference in swing speed required from the lowest to the highest CPM shaft.  To give you an idea of what a 20 MPH difference in swing speed can make, a 5-iron (with 27° of loft) swung at 70 MPH should carry approximately 157 yards.  The same 5-iron (with 27° of loft) swung at 90 MPH should carry approximately 201 yards.  Do you think that both of these swings should be using the same "R" flex shaft?  Nobody on this planet will be able to give you a standard "accepted" definition of what exactly "R" or "S" flex means in the golf industry because there is no standard among golf companies or shaft manufacturers on shaft flex.  Measuring frequency and shaft bend profiles is a proven, consistent, repeatable, measurable way of determining exact shaft flex..... something you don't get with off-the-rack clubs.  When your shafts are frequency matched, you will know exactly what you have, and they will be matched perfectly to your swing.

I measured a couple of OEM hybrids for a customer this past season - both were marked "R" flex (for Regular).  One of them measured a PCS flex of 0.5 (yup, that's ZERO point five - something that the Li'l old lady from Pasadena might require with her 40 MPH swing), and the other "Regular" hybrid measured to a PCS flex of 5.4 (something fit for a ballpark of 85-90 MPH swing).  Both shafts were marked with the same word "Regular" on them, that means they should both play the same too then right??????  WRONG!!!  Both of these shafts were COMPLETELY DIFFERENT (although they are both "Regular" - whatever the hell "Regular" means).

Hey, while we're babblin' about shafts, that reminds me - have you ever noticed an up-close shot of a Tour player's golf bag, or irons?  Ever notice how many are using the stock OEM shafts for that iron?  You see darn near everything under the sun for shafts in the Pros' irons.... why is that?  Maybe because since they all do not swing exactly the same, they all need/prefer something different?????  If you can ever see a picture (or in real life for that matter) with five tour players golf bags near each other, count how many of them are using the "Uni-Flex" shaft.  Right after you finish counting to ZERO, you can then try to explain to me exactly what the hell does Uni-Flex mean anyway?  Geesh, like we didn't have enough trouble trying to determine what "Regular" or "Stiff" means, now the buggers have to throw "Uni-Flex" into the mix also....... yikes!


Golf Mag Blab:

In the January 2009 edition of Golf Digest Magazine, Hank Haney (who formerly did some swing work with Tiger) wrote an article on juniors and their clubs.  In the article, it is mentioned that "Clubfitting is crucial for junior golfers" - and references are made to club length, weight, and shaft stiffness.  Guess what, the exact same thing applies to us regular hacks that aren't juniors anymore too - the above statement should have read "clubfitting is crucial to all golfers" (well, at least the ones who are serious about improving and playing their best) - having the right clubs, with the right flex, with the right weight will make a difference.

Speaking of golf magazines, the January 2009 edition of Golf Magazine, there was a nifty little article on Stuart Appleby titled "Here's What I Play".  The article looked at the clubs Appleby carries in his golf bag.  One VERY interesting thing to note in the write-up was his driver - it is 44 1/4 (yup, that's 44 and one quarter) inches long!!!!  Appleby finished 2008 off with a 290.9 yard average off the tee.

Another fantastic article was in the February 2009 edition of Golf Magazine, more from the "Here's What I Play" department.  This month the subject was Camilo Villegas.  The article states that Camilo's driver is 44 inches long - Camilo was only able to average 293.3 yards off the tee in 2008 with that abnormally short????? driver.  There was a fantastic quote in this article regarding shafts "There are so many shafts, flexes, weights, kick points, and torques that you need to get fitted for in order to get the right match." 

In the October 2009 edition of Golf Magazine, Sean O'Hair is the focus of the "Here's What I Play" segment.  Sean says "Too many amateurs just buy clubs off the rack.  Be sure that the loft is where it needs to be, the length is what it needs to be, and the flex is what it needs to be."   Do ya think there might be somthin' to that?  Numerous pros reference custom fitting in interviews and magazines.  Heck, even Nick Faldo mentions on many of the golf telecasts how important custom fitting is to golfers.

The average PGA professional's driver length is 44.5" long - 'cuz that's as long as they can go and still retain their desired level of consistent control with that club.  The average off-the-rack driver is between 45.5 - 46" long - why is that?????  If a PGA pro can't consistently control a driver longer than 44.5" long, what in the world makes you think that "average Joe Hack" can (or you for that matter)?  Sure, you MIGHT hit that long OEM driver a teeny bit longer occasionally (most definitely NOT all the time - that can be proven) - all that really means is you have to go a few yards deeper into the forest to retrieve that errant tee shot.  Read up on my "Drivers" page how to increase the length of your "average" drive (the answer is probably not what you think it is).

More Golf Mag Blab (cheers and poo-poo too):

I am (or was) a subscriber to two golf publications - Golf Digest magazine (former subscriber), and Golf magazine (current subscriber).  Both offer some neat information, and some really interesting articles.  In early 2011 Golf Digest came out with their "Top 100 Club Fitters" list, and their "top 600 Club Fitters" list.... YAY!!!!!  I was elated to hear that some very qualified clubfitters were finally getting some long overdue recognition in a widely read international publication - many of my AGCP brothers made the list....YAY AGAIN!!!!!  Much to my dismay, the only clubfitters that made the list were all within the American borders.  It's a shame, as I know several very high-calibre clubfitters who reside in the awesome country of Canada, and many other superb fitters residing in Europe, Asia, Australia, and the rest of the world.  So befuddled "cheers" go out to Golf Magazine for kinda recognizing custom clubfitters (or a portion thereof), and in the same breath "poo-poo" on you Golf Magazine for your tunnel-vision.  The two emails I had sent to them on this topic remain un-answered (after more than a year now I kinda don't think I'm gonna hear back from 'em either).  I did not re-new my Golf Digest subscription because of this.  If by chance they ever broaden their horizons with regards to qualified clubfitters, I'll gladly buy a subscription again - but until then it's poo-poo on you Golf Magazine!  It seems I was important enough to them when it came time for me to dole out some cash for another subscription and didn't, so important that they even had a real person phone me about my re-newal (apparently my cash is very important to them).  I kindly told them that when they expand the borders of their clubfitter's list, I'll gladly re-new.


Just how important is the short game in golf anyway?  If you don't know, I STRONGLY suggest you pick up a copy of "Dave Pelz' Short Game Bible".  If you slip into "tightwad mode" sometimes, you can even pick one up cheap on eBay, I've seen them there many times.  Read the book (several times), and apply yourself to the knowledge you read from the book - it will make a difference in your short game - which in turn will make a difference in your scoring and handicap.

Once you master the wedge game, then pick yourself up a copy of "Dave Pelz' Putting Bible" - this guy actually has how to score in golf figured out - not only that, but he can PROVE everything he says.  It's not rocket science, but Pelz is a retired rocket scientist with NASA.  Yup, it's true!  Improving will not be easy (it will take hours and hours of practice and dedication), but if you read Pelz' writings, it will make a lot of sense to you.  What is YOUR short game handicap?  Visit the Pelz site at www.pelzgolf.com to find out yours.  And nope, I didn't get paid to say that either.


Hey, speaking of short game - that reminds me of wedges.  Have you ever given any thought on the grooves of your wedges?  They do wear out over time and use.  Have a peek at the pictures.

Above is a 200X photo shows what new grooves look like.  The photo was taken with a USB microscope.  The sharper, upper edge of the groove is the area that puts the most “bite” on a golf ball allowing you to shoot right at the flag and have the ball hold the green.

Above, this 200X photo shows what worn grooves look like.  This photo was taken with a USB microscope.  It’s almost impossible to see the edge wear, gouging, nicking, and narrowing with the naked eye, but these are the wear characteristics that dramatically reduce wedge playability!  Deterioration of the groove upper edge leads to a significant loss of backspin and therefore control!

It may be time to get your wedge grooves re-grooved (I have a special tool for that).  If they're too far gone, you might want to think about replacing your wedges.


The following article (below in green) was compiled by Stan from www.saskgolfer.com, this article was posted at the SaskGolfer site for a while back in June/08;

Gooder fits like a custom suit

 

 

Golfers wanting to take their game to the next level this summer may want to talk to custom club-maker Bert Reich of Regina district and hear what he has to say about off-the-rack suits.

 

“Custom clubs...there is a difference - I strongly believe that.  If you were going to attend a function where formal wear was required, would you borrow a suit from your neighbour to wear?  Probably not, because it won't fit you correctly,” says Reich who launched Gooder Custom Golf Clubs this spring.

 

 “Purchasing off-the-rack golf clubs is similar. If you want the best possible golf clubs that are made to fit you and your swing, custom fitted clubs are a must, plain and simple.” 

 

Reich was a drag racer for 18 years before retiring from the sport when his son was born in 2000.  Since then, the Kronau resident confesses to becoming a golf fanatic.

 

The golf industry has no set standard for many elements of a golf club, or shaft flex.  Most off-the-rack clubs are "cut and glued" only, according to Reich.  No spine aligning, frequency matching, swing-weight matching, loft-and-lie adjustments, shaft profiling etc. takes place on them, which are all very important performance enhancements to golf club consistency and performance, Reich adds. 

 

A full set of custom clubs – depending on the components and options chosen (heads, shafts, grips) ­- can range anywhere in price from $350 to $1,500+.  Reich says he doesn’t buy “trash components,” only those he would use himself.

 

Reich markets his custom clubs through www.goodergolf.com, and has received orders from across Saskatchewan, across Canada, and from the United States.  He attributes some of the positive response to his certification and membership in the Association of Golf Clubfitting Professionals.

 

“Regardless of who you purchase your clubs from, if you want to play better golf and get more enjoyment from the game, your clubs must be custom fitted by a competent clubfitter/builder.....and don't forget to practice your short game!”


I encourage you to read a very informative article written by Dave Tutelman (link is below).  Dave is a very smart guy (retired engineer) who now devotes a great deal of his time and research to golf and golf technology.  He is also the president of Tutelman Research, and has written many informative articles on his golf studies and findings.

Dave sums it up best - the truth is that the only way to improve in golf is:

1. Lessons (from the right teaching pro for you).

2. Practice - lots of it, and the right kind.

3. Clubs that fit you! Not the latest technology. Not some magic invention. Just be sure it fits your game and frame.

Please Click here to read the full Dave Tutelman article - How to Improve Your Game.

Hmmmmmmmm - Dave's theory ring any bells?????  Very similar to my 2-point theory at the top of the page.


Ibi-deeeee.....Ibi-deeeee......Ibi-deeeee.......


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